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Das Gute, das Schlechte und das Inspirierende

Das Gute, das Schlechte und das Inspirierende

Understanding Gold Supply Chains

Gold is more than a material; it’s a story of people, places, and responsibility. Behind every piece of jewelry lies a global network of miners, refiners, traders, and manufacturers. With this comes responsibility: to understand where our materials come from, who is part of the process, and how we can contribute to fairer practices.

Current developments in Sudan and the ongoing debate over “conflict gold” have once again drawn attention to long-standing social and ethical challenges in the gold supply chain. At BRUNA, we see value in contributing to this dialogue; not to stand apart, but to help deepen the industry’s understanding of what responsibility truly means. It is not a race; it’s a shared journey, and sharing what we learn along the way is part of our role in it.

Our ESG Manager Alessandra brings years of experience in mineral supply chain due diligence. Before joining BRUNA, she supported and audited companies along the entire supply chain, advised the UK government on the EU Conflict Minerals Regulation, and contributed to the development of joint industry standards. Together with Alessandra, we want to share insights into this important topic and the work behind it.

Responsibility in complex systems

Gold is a precious, but also sensitive material. In certain regions, its extraction can be linked to human rights abuses or the financing of conflicts – as seen in Sudan. It is every brand’s responsibility to identify, assess, and actively mitigate these risks.

To do so, we have implemented a supply chain due diligence system, aligned with the recommendations of the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas. These guidelines are recognized as international best practice and underpin many legal and voluntary frameworks, including the EU Conflict Minerals Regulation, the LBMA Responsible Gold Guidance, and the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) Code of Practices.

Our sourcing approach

At BRUNA, we mainly work with two production partners based in Thailand and Italy. Both partners source recycled gold from RJC-certified refineries, audited against the Code of Practices (COP) and Chain-of-Custody (COC) Standard. Only a few selected solid gold jewelry pieces are produced by two smaller manufacturers based in Italy, who source gold from three RJC COP- and COC-certified refineries based in Italy, a recycler based in Vicenza, or Italian banks. Through our “Follow Your Jewelry” section on each product page of our website, you can learn more about the origin and processing of each piece.

Supporting responsible small-scale mining

While we prioritize recycled materials, we recognize the vital role of artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM), which accounts for around 20% of global gold production. Millions of people depend on it for their livelihoods – often under challenging conditions, such as unsafe working environments, mercury use, unfair payment terms, or in conflict environments.

Although we do not source from ASM directly, to support system-wide positive change, we collaborate with The Impact Facility (TIF), a social enterprise based in Kenya. In 2024, we contributed to the development and pilot of a Responsible Gold Credit Programme, an initiative that helps downstream brands like ours invest in better working conditions and environmental practices in small-scale mining communities. Such initiatives are essential for building long-term, community-based solutions, addressing the economic and social conditions that often underpin instability and conflict in resource-rich regions.

Learning, understanding, improving

Responsibility starts with understanding. As a jewelry brand, we aim to know our supply chains – to question them, learn from them, and work together with trusted, certified partners to help them improve. For BRUNA, Alessandra has already visited our main manufacturer in Thailand, our fourth-tier gemstone cutter and polisher in Jaipur, and our ASM-sponsored projects in Kenya. These on-site visits deepen our understanding of the jewelry value chain, where our materials come from, and how we, as a brand, can make a difference. But: collaborative work is key. That’s why we joined the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030 and continue to seek partnerships that bring real change where it’s most needed.

To be continued...